Remembering the Walker-Gordon Dairy, an Innovator in Safe Raw Milk from 1897-1971

Did you know that the science of producing safe raw milk was flourishing way back in the late 1800’s?  Read on for an interview with Dr Edward Tindall DVM, who worked at the Walker-Gordon Certified Raw Milk dairy in New Jersey.

Aerial view of Walker Gordon Laboratories and Dairy in Plainsboro, New Jersey.

Certified Medical Milk

Humans have had a long and successful history with raw milk for at least 10,000 years. Ancient peoples who consumed milk had a competitive advantage over those that did not have a steady source of readily available food, such that the reproductive capacity and/or survivability of ancient raw milk drinkers was substantially increased compared to non-milk-drinking populations.

After numerous millennia flourishing with raw milk, mankind’s relationship with raw milk took a wrong turn. By the mid-1800’s in America, some raw milk production had shifted away from farms and into highly-populated cities. Big cities did not have pastures or clean water, and the cows in city dairies were kept in filthy conditions with poor nutrition and poor animal health. Many of these cows were fed byproducts from alcohol distilleries, leading to illness in the cows. Raw milk had become a source of deadly diseases such as tuberculosis, typhoid, diphtheria, and scarlet fever. 

In the late 1800's, it was recognized that raw milk being produced in these conditions was dangerous, and two solutions were proposed.  Pasteurization was ushered in to address filthy conditions and unhealthy cows in cities.  It answered the question of how to commercialize dirty milk, rather than spending the time and energy it would take to produce clean milk from healthy cows. The other solution was to actually produce the milk in hygienic conditions with healthy animals.  

It was known that raw milk was a superior source of nutrition for infants and children, so the American Association of Medical Milk Commissions (AAMMC) was established in the late 1800's by Dr Henry Coit to ensure a supply of safe raw milk. The AAMMC was in operation for nearly a century, certifying medical raw milk for use in hospitals and for feeding infants and children.  

“The requirements of the New York Commission at that time were: ‘That the milk should contain 4 to 4.5 percent fat; that it should be free from pathogenic germs; and that the total number of bacteria should not be excessive. The milk was to be delivered in bottles and not over 24 hours old. It should be from healthy cows.”

~Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind

Walker Gordon’s Rotolactor in operation. School buses, tour buses, and families accounted for approximately 250,000 visitors annually.

Walker-Gordon Dairy and Dr Edward Tindall DVM

The Walker-Gordon dairy farm was a preeminent source of Certified Raw Milk for over 70 years.  Edward Tindall’s father worked at the Walker-Gordon farm, and he himself worked at the farm for several summers.  Edward went on to become a practicing veterinarian in New Jersey for nearly 40 years, and also developed implantable microchip technology for animals. The Raw Milk Institute is pleased to have Edward Tindall DVM on our Advisory Board.

In the late 1990’s, Edward co-authored a book about the Walker-Gordon farm titled Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind. Edward was kind enough to share more information about this extraordinary farm in a written interview. 

1.      Can you tell us about what made Walker-Gordon dairy farm so special?

Walker-Gordon was never intended to be just a dairy. The actual name was Walker-Gordon Laboratory Company, imprinted on their bottles and responsible for numerous innovations in the field of dairy. Among these were the first rotary centralized milking parlor, milking 1650 head. 50 cows were milked at a time (every 12 and a half minutes or one revolution) on the ʻRotolactorʼ.

The milk was immediately refrigerated, and if intended for the Philadelphia, New York or Boston market, shipped within hours from a refrigerated box car of the Pennsylvania Railroad on a siding adjacent to the milking parlor.

The cows were attended 24 hours a day by herdsmen in 50 cow barns with constant attention to keeping the cows bedded on fresh peanut shell bedding and groomed, with ever present fresh water on demand, fed grain and excellent alfalfa hay year-round.

Other innovations were the addition of irradiated yeast to feeding regimens to enhance vitamin D (prophylaxis against childhood rickets), production of acidophilous milk for enteric health, harvesting crops at prime time for storage regardless of weather conditions, use of byproducts (fecal waste) for garden fertilizers, artificial insemination, crop production by cooperative farms under control and supervision of central organization, and extensive record keeping of health and productivity of each cow.

Bottling was done immediately adjacent to the Rotolactor. The milk, "certified and unpasteurized," was not exposed to anything but sterilized stainless steel and glass.

2.     What production and milking practices were used to keep the milk safe for people?

Cleanliness was ever a constant protocol. The cows were pre-washed with warm water prior to entering the milking parlor. There they were toweled by attendants in white uniforms, attached to sterilized stainless steel milkers, and the milk fed to Pyrex glass containers and delivered through stainless steel pipes to the bottling plant adjacent to the milking platform.

All milking personnel had weekly examinations and throat cultures by the local physician. Milk was routinely cultured in an on-site laboratory for bacterial counts and pathogens.

3. Since you were employed there for a time, tell us about what you did and what it was like to work there?

My employment was several summers working on maintenance and the storage of alfalfa hay. During haying season the crop was harvested at prime time regardless of the weather. Chopped in the field, blown into stake bodied trucks and delivered to the massive dehydrators, it was compressed into 110 to 130 pound bales around the clock. Starting a 7:00 am, the hay was stored in large barns, often in 120 degree summer temperatures.

Hay being delivered to the dehydrator for preservation. In later years, it was chopped into more manageable size for compression and baling.

4.    What kind of milk did this dairy produce?

Walker-Gordon produced Grade A, whole milk, unpasteurized of the highest quality the industry has ever known, from its inception in the earliest years of the twentieth century until it stopped production in 1971.

“For those of us who grew up with the taste of fresh, really fresh, whole milk, unadulterated in any manner except to chill it ice cold, today’s milk is a sad replacement…

 The unequaled taste of an ice cold half pint of milk, the cream layered on the top, after working several uninterrupted hours in excessively hot temperatures… I have yet to equal that flavor…”

~Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind

5.     Who were the usual customers for this milk?

The customers were the general public locally, with home delivery, and public markets from Washington, DC to Boston, Ma. A renowned quality product hailed for freshness and longevity, it had a very loyal consumer base. President Franklin Delano Roosevelt, when traveling abroad by ship, insisted that Walker-Gordon milk and cream be available, on board, for the trip.

6.    What was the safety record of this dairy that operated for about 8 decades up until 1971?

The safety record of Walker-Gordon milk and milk products was above reproach and I can find no instances (nor have I heard of any) of any untoward or adverse instances of health problems or lawsuits. Safety of personnel was extremely good. Farm accidents are ever present and WG had some, but fewer than would be expected.

“Cheaper milk from the heartland of America, increased labor costs, higher taxes, wages, and insurances, difficulty in attracting farm labor, the sky-rocketing value of land, and pressure for housing for an increasing and increasingly affluent population all contributed to the demise of farming in general, in New Jersey and elsewhere, and in particular to Walker-Gordon with its emphasis on high quality, first and foremost.”

~Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind

7.     What future potential do you see for raw milk dairy farming?

Prognostications of the future of raw milk dairy farming is fraught with the same magnitude of variables as the future of the country. I would like to believe that the future is positive, for indeed, I can think of no more beneficial product than clean, wholesome, properly handled raw milk that is fresh from the cow and unaltered by pasteurization or other untoward handling.

The vicissitudes of government and the legal profession, swayed by propaganda and functioning under ignorance of biology and a mindset that excludes information that does not align with biased public opinion is a very large hurdle to clear. As long as there is a discerning public with the economic wherewithal to acquire a quality product, the market is assured. I admire the efforts of individuals such as Dr. Joseph Heckman and Mark McAfee that take up the torch, live and advocate the premise, and forward such a noble cause.

Paving the Way with Safe Raw Milk

The Walker-Gordon dairy was certainly an exceptional dairy. Walker Gordon’s eight decades of safe raw milk production are an imminent example of what can be achieved through dedication and innovation.  At its peak, the Walker-Gordon dairy was producing 6,500 gallons of milk daily. Through hygienic practices and regular bacteria testing of its milk, Walker Gordon dairy was able to provide safe raw milk for thousands of people over several generations.

The last Certified Medical Milk dairy in the USA was Alta Dena dairy in Los Angeles, California.  Alta Dena produced its last quart of raw milk in May of 1999. With the end of the American Association of Medical Milk Commissions and their certification of raw milk dairies, there was a great need for leadership in safe raw milk.

The Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) was created to fulfill this need.  RAWMI teaches well-established scientific principles and good production methods to assist farmers in producing hygienic, safe raw milk. Through its LISTING program, RAWMI assists farmers in developing risk analysis and management plans (RAMP) for their unique farms. RAWMI’s Common Standards have set an international benchmark for bacterial testing of raw milk.

Edward Tindall’s book, “Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind” is available from Covered Bridge Press, 39 Upper Creek Road, Stockton, New Jersey 08559 at $25 dollars per copy, plus USPS shipping. Covered Bridge Press can be reached at 908-996-4420.

Walker-Gordon: One of a Kind. Book by Edward Tindall, DVM.

New Raw Milk Research from the 2020 IMGC Symposium

Takeaways from a RAWMI Farmer

The 17th International Milk Genomics Consortium (IMGC) Symposium was held on October 13-16, 2020. This year’s conference was presented virtually, to an audience of more than 270 people from around the world. As a raw milk farmer and Chairman of the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI), this was the 10th annual symposium that I have attended.  

Through attending these conferences year-after-year, I have developed many close relationships with university and PhD scientists.  Although the virtual format didn’t allow much in terms of one-on-one connections and conversations with researchers, nonetheless there were many fascinating presentations this year.  

This year’s conference focused on health impacts of milk, with particular focus on immune health, gut microbiome, and breastfeeding in relation to COVID-19. You can see a complete list of all presentations here. There were several presentations related to raw milk which I want to share with the raw milk community.  

University of California-Davis

Loss of Allergy-Protective Capacity of Raw Cow’s Milk After Heat Treatment Coincides with Loss of Immune Active Whey Proteins

Ling Xiong, Wageningen University and Research, Wageningen, The Netherlands 

This study “aimed at achieving a better understanding of the underlying mechanism between heat damage to whey proteins and allergy development.” Raw milk has been correlated with anti-allergenic benefits, and heat-sensitive whey protein has been hypothesized to contribute to these benefits. In this study, “raw cow’s milk was heated for 30 min at 50, 60, 65, 70, 75, or 80 °C [122, 140, 149, 158, 167, or 176 °F]… The allergy-protective effect of differently heated milk samples were tested in a murine OVA-induced food allergy model.” 

This study “tested the various heat-treated milk samples for their native protein profile and their allergy-protective capacity... the allergy-protective effect of raw cow's milk is lost after heating milk for 30 min at 65 °C [149 °F] or higher. This loss of protection coincided with a reduction in native immunologically active whey proteins.” 

Heat treatment at 65 °C or higher destroyed allergy-protective capacity of raw milk in murine OVA-induced food allergy model. Xiong, et al.

The whey protein in raw milk provides protection from allergies, asthma, and inflammation.  When heated above 149 °F, these properties are dramatically reduced or eliminated. This finding is an important confirmation of the unique beneficial properties of whole, unprocessed raw milk. Raw dairy products such as cheese, butter, and strained yogurts would not be expected to have such strong anti-allergenic benefits because they do not contain whey. 

All across the world, when raw cheeses are made the raw whey is drained off and either discarded, used as a fertilizer, or fed to animals such as pigs.  Raw whey protein is arguably one of the most vital components in raw milk and it is literally treated as a waste byproduct. Some raw whey is made into powder and sold as a health product. Most of the whey protein powders on the market are not raw, but are highly pasteurized, spray dried, and oxidized. These widely available whey products no longer have the bioactivity found in the raw form.  

The new research on the anti-allergenic benefits of raw whey shows that, instead of being discarded, the whey left over from making cheese has great potential. Researchers called for innovation to bring raw whey protein to the market for the benefit of human health.  

B. infantis EVC001 Colonization in Breastfed Infants Modulates Cytokine Profile Linked to Autoimmune and Allergic Diseases

Bethany Henrick, Evolve Biosystems Inc., Davis, CA, USA 

This research at UC Davis has been studying the effects of Bifidobacteria infantis EVC001 on gut microbiome and immune health. “The intestinal microbiome plays a critical role in the development of the immune system…Stool samples were collected at Day 6 (baseline) and day 60 of life from exclusively breastfed infants (n=40) randomly selected to receive either 1.8 x 1010 CFU B. infantis EVC001 daily for 21 days starting Day 7 postnatal (EVC001) or breast milk alone (controls).

“Importantly, infants fed B. infantis EVC001 produced significantly decreased levels of [proinflammatory cytokines], while [beneficial cytokine considered to reduce autoimmune and allergic diseases] levels were significantly increased…

“These findings suggest a novel immunomodulatory function of B. infantis in breastfed infants… and further imply this strain of bacteria may [be]… critically important in the reduction of… autoimmune and allergic diseases.” 

The researchers have identified that Bifidobacteria infantis is critical to the training and development of T-Cells, which play a central role in the immune system. Historically, Bifidobacteria dominated the microbiome of breastfed infants. These beneficial bacteria actively train naive T-Cells into protective “Killer T-Cells.” This is foundational and is essential to the development of the newborn infant’s immune system. Under the current set of societal and nutritional conditions, Bifidobacteria in newborns are reduced due to limited breast feeding, use of baby formulas and antibiotics, and high C-section rates. This new research demonstrates that supplementation with Bifidobacteria is likely to improve infants’ immune systems. 

Image from Bethany Henrick’s Presentation at the 2020 IMGC Symposium

Evidence of a Significant Secretory-IgA-Dominant SARS-CoV-2 Immune Response in Human Milk Following Recovery from COVID-19

Rebecca Powell, Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai, New York, NY, USA

Researchers studied breastfeeding mothers and infants during the peak of the New York City COVID-19 outbreak in early 2020. It was found that COVID-19 positive mothers did not transfer the virus to their babies. Tests of the breastmilk of COVID-19 positive mothers found that there is a strong “SARS-CoV-2 immune response [in the form of antibodies] in human milk after infection in the majority of individuals.” Breastmilk from COVID-19 positive mothers contains antibodies which can then confer protection against COVID-19 to their breastfed babies. Interestingly, the milk from COVID-19 positive mothers has been shown to continue to contain COVID-19 antibodies even months after the infection.  

This is one of nature’s protective gifts. Mammalian mothers protect their young through breast milk and antibody sharing. This important fact has also lead other researchers to consider the use of immune milk from cows as a therapeutic food.  It was hypothesized that, if cows were exposed to coronavirus during the last stages of pregnancy, the colostrum they produced after calving would contain coronavirus antibodies.  

My own RAWMI LISTED dairy (Organic Pastures Dairy Company) worked with IMGC and UC Davis researchers in early 2020 to test this hypothesis in a pilot study.  The cows were exposed to a bovine coronavirus in late pregnancy, and their colostrum and milk were then tested after calving. It worked! Antibodies to coronavirus were found in the colostrum and milk after calving. This study is now being expanded at UC Davis using their own cows. Further work needs to be done to better understand any potential impact of antibodies in milk on older children and adults, who do not have permeable guts like young infants do.  

Milk, Nose, Gut: Microbiomes in the CHILD Cohort Study

Meghan Azad, University of Manitoba, Winnipeg, Canada 

The CHILD Cohort Study (www.childstudy.ca) is a study of 3,500 Canadian families from pregnancy onwards to understand the developmental origins of chronic diseases. This study has shown that breastfeeding and vaginal birth are associated with reduced risks of childhood asthma and obesity. These beneficial effects appear to be partly mediated by the infant gut microbiome, which is seeded with beneficial bacteria in the birth canal as well as through breastfeeding. Current research is focused on understanding “how breastfeeding practices and breast milk components (including bacteria, fungi, oligosaccharides, fatty acids, hormones and cytokines) shape the developing infant nasal and gut microbiomes and contribute to health and disease trajectories.”   

Raw milk from other mammals has been correlated with many of the same benefits as human breast milk. Like breast milk, raw milk contains a wide array of essential nutrients, fats, proteins, anti-inflammatory and digestive enzymes, bioavailable vitamins, and minerals, all in a natural form which is most easily utilized by the body.  

Image from Meghan Azad’s Presentation at the 2020 IMGC Symposium

Difference in Levels of SARS-CoV-2 Spike Protein- and Nucleocapsid-Reactive SIgM/IgM, IgG and SIgA/IgA Antibodies in Human Milk

Veronique Demers Mathieu, Medolac Laboratories/University of Massachusetts Amherst, USA 

Researchers from the University of Massachusetts sought gain an understanding of the “presence and the levels of [COVID-19] antibodies” in breast milk. The researchers measured the amounts of various types of COVID-19 antibodies in breast milk samples from 41 women during the pandemic. They found that women who “had symptoms of viral respiratory infection during the last year” had higher levels of certain types of COVID-19 antibodies than women who had experienced no viral respiratory symptoms in the last year.  Heat treatment of the breast milk at 100°C (212 °F) for 30 minutes “completely inactivated” the antibodies. The researchers concluded that, “The presence of SARS-CoV-2-reactive antibodies in human milk could provide passive immunization to the breastfed infants.” 

This research has confirmed that antibodies are completely destroyed through heat treatment of milk. Breast milk must be raw in order to provide antibody protection to infants. This same science applies to raw milk from other mammals.

Closing Remarks

The symposium ended with closing remarks by Dr. Bruce German and Dr. Jennifer Smilowitz from UC Davis. They discussed two important upcoming needs in the community of scientific research about milk:

1. Defining breast milk as the keystone research target of 21st Century for the public research funding agencies of the world, and

2. Positioning food as the first line of defense for nourishment and therapeutics in emerging infections of public health impact. 

In other words, raw milk is considered to be the most important area of research going forward. This is because raw milk contains the bioactive genomic secrets of life, and to a large degree determines how well the immune system and gut microbiome will function. When the science of raw milk is better understood, human health will be improved and more illnesses will be prevented. 

In summary, this conference confirmed the following.  

• Raw milk is a whole bioactive superfood that nourishes and builds the immune system.

• Heat destroys the bioactive elements in raw milk that impart health benefits.

• Raw whey is a new market opportunity, yet innovation will be required because the FDA forbids sale of raw whey. Safe raw whey must be produced in the same ways that safe raw milk is produced.

• Raw breast milk provides protection against COVID-19 to breastfeeding infants. There is a need for more research into the immune-protective benefits of raw milk from other mammals.

Why Raw Milk Standards Matter

Back in 2011 before the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) was formed, there were no universal standards for safe raw milk production. Consumer demand for raw milk was expanding, as people learned about the health benefits of raw milk as well as the negative effects of pasteurization. There was a growing body of evidence that children who drink raw milk have decreased rates of asthma, allergies, eczema, ear infections, fever, and respiratory infections. Whereas pasteurized milk is a top food allergen and difficult to digest, raw milk is actually a health-supporting food with rich therapeutic potential that is easily digested by most consumers. Yet, standards for raw milk varied widely from state to state and country to country. 

The occasional foodborne illness outbreaks that could be tied to raw milk continued to tarnish raw milk’s reputation.  And worse yet, some of these outbreaks actually led to life-threatening illnesses. As raw milk’s popularity grew, it was being consumed by a wider segment of the population including immune-compromised people. Whereas average healthy people are likely to have relatively mild symptoms from exposure to foodborne pathogens, immune-compromised people are more likely to have severe symptoms.

Perfectly Safe Food?

It is important to note that there is no such thing as a perfectly safe food. A CDC analysis of foodborne illnesses from 2009-2015 showed that the top food categories commonly linked to illnesses were chicken, pork, and seeded vegetables. Multi-state foodborne illness outbreaks have been linked to foods ranging from unpasteurized apple juice to ground beef to soy nut butter to lettuce.

Pasteurized milk is not perfectly safe, either, and is implicated in foodborne illnesses and outbreaks every year.  Although a wide range of foods including meats and vegetables are known to have the potential for causing foodborne illnesses, only raw milk is targeted by government regulators as a food to be completely avoided. Countries such as Canada and Australia currently have complete bans on raw milk.

Raw Milk Institute Method for Safe Raw Milk

The Raw Milk Institute was founded in 2011 to advance the cause of safe raw milk.  The numerous health benefits of raw milk make it an essential food, which is too important to be allowed to be systematically suppressed by regulators and government agencies. RAWMI sought to better understand the important factors in ensuring that raw milk was safe to consume.

In 2011-12, RAWMI brought together a diverse international group with the purpose of establishing standards for safe raw milk. This group included medical doctors and epidemiologists, nutritional consultants, veterinarians, food safety scientists, raw milk farmers, and raw milk consumers. This collaborative group developed the Raw Milk Institute Common Standards, which were initially released in 2012. 

The RAWMI Common Standards describe a three-pronged approach for the production of safe raw milk which consists of:

• Farmer training and mentoring

• Risk Analysis and Management Plan (RAMP) for the unique conditions on each individual farm

• Stringent yet achievable bacterial test standards for coliforms and Standard Plate Count (SPC)

The Common Standards Work!

Since their release in 2012, the RAWMI Common Standards have become a foundational part of low-risk raw milk production across North America. When farmers are well-trained, use careful production practices as laid out in their individual RAMP, and perform ongoing bacterial testing of their milk, they can produce raw milk that is ultra-low-risk.

Researchers from Canada and Europe have studied the safety of raw milk intended for direct human consumption, and have specifically considered milk from farms who implement the RAWMI Common Standards. They have found that carefully produced raw milk is a low-risk food which is fundamentally different from pre-pasteurized milk. The implementation of the RAWMI Common Standards has led to a significant reduction in raw milk-related illnesses and outbreaks.

The table below contrasts pathogen test data from pre-pasteurized milk vs. raw milk intended for direct human consumption.  As illustrated in the table, pathogen testing of pre-pasteurized milk samples has detected pathogens in up to 33% of samples.  In contrast, there were zero pathogens detected in thousands of milk samples from raw milk intended for direct human consumption. It is clear from this test data that pre-pasteurized milk is categorically different from raw milk intended for direct human consumption.

Data courtesy British Columbia Herdshare Association

Common Standards and RAMP 2020 Update

Knowledge about safe raw milk is continually advancing. With the review of the RAWMI Advisory Board and LISTED farmers, the RAWMI Common Standards and RAMP have recently been updated to include the latest information about best practices in raw milk production. The updated Common Standards and RAMP are also now inclusive of other dairy animals such as goats and sheep. The 2020 Common Standards and RAMP are available here:

Soil Fertility and Pastures for High Quality Raw Milk

Feeding dairy animals on green sunny pastures is the preferred way to produce raw milk.  Paddock rotations that provide a daily cycle of movement to fresh, sunny, green pastures provides an ideal environment for keeping dairy animals healthy, clean, and producing high-quality raw milk.  In many cases when dairy farmers transition from an industrial confinement feeding model to a pasture-based feeding system, they are pleased to find that animal health often improves.  

Soil fertility and rotational grazing are of prime importance to pasture management.  Fertile soil is the main source for minerals taken up by the forage plants which dairy animals graze upon.  Soils supplied with calcium and phosphorus fortify milk with these minerals which are needed by people to build strong bones.     

Besides soil being a source for mineral enrichment of milk, a substantial body of scientific literature reports that milk produced by animals on pasture has enhanced nutritional properties compared to milk produced by confinement operations.  Milk produced during the grazing season has a more favorable ratio of omega-3 to omega-6 fatty acids.  Pasture raised milk also has higher levels of conjugated linoleic acid and fat-soluble vitamins that are beneficial to human nutrition.      

Whether soil fertility is managed or neglected can also influence the health of dairy animals.  Sometimes pasture lands are neglected and not managed to optimize soil fertility, forage quality, and health and productivity of grazing animals.  For example, an imbalance of the minerals calcium, magnesium, and potassium in soils can put animal health at risk.  When soil pH management and liming are neglected weedy plant species may be favored over the more nutritious leguminous forage species preferred by dairy cows.     

To produce raw milk of the highest quality, producers should make observations as they walk over the pastures grazed by dairy animals.  In weedy pastures where more desirable forage species are failing to thrive, it may be a sign of poor soil fertility or other mismanagement.  Soil sampling and testing for soil fertility status can be performed to help diagnose reasons for poor pasture performance.  Even on seemingly well performing pastures, regular soil fertility sampling and testing should be done about every three years to monitor soil pH and fertility status. 

A new publication Soil Fertility Recommendations for Pastures is now available online from Rutgers University, New Jersey Agriculture Research Station (E364 Soil Fertility Recommendations for Pastures. Heckman, J. https://njaes.rutgers.edu/e364 ).  Although this publication was specifically designed for New Jersey much of the information is universal.  The main soil fertility guidelines are most applicable to Eastern and Midwestern states. Higher levels of precipitation in the Eastern states cause nutrients to leach and acidify the soil.  This increases the need to apply limestone more frequently. 

In other regions, soil fertility needs, and testing procedures may be different and based on the local geological and climatic conditions.  For instance, soils in the arid Southwest tend to be alkaline and as such the pastures may benefit from acidifying soil amendments. Also, different climatic regions may grow different forage species.  To account for regional differences, farmers should consult with local expertise for soil fertility recommendations. 

Image from Oregon State University

In summary, producers of fresh unprocessed milk are encouraged to make the best use of pastures as a major feed source during the grazing season.  When the soil fertility conditions are optimized for the health and productivity of dairy animals, farmers will be able to provide customers with nutritious dairy products of the highest quality.              

Antibiotic Resistant Genes in Raw Milk - What Does the Data Really Mean?

Government-Funded Study Finds ZERO Pathogens in Raw Milk Samples!

That’s what the headlines should have read.

Instead, the study was titled, “Reservoirs of antimicrobial resistance genes in retail raw milk” [1]. The study, funded by the National Institutes of Health (NIH) and the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), was not able to find any pathogens in raw milk. So instead they focused on trying to create fear of antibiotic resistant genes which were found to proliferate when raw milk was allowed to sit at room temperature for hours.  

Antibiotic Resistant Genes are Ubiquitous

Antibiotic resistant genes are everywhere. They’ve been found in every environment, including pristine habitats that have been virtually untouched by humans such as Antarctica [2, 3].  They’re even found in the dust of buildings [4].

“Antibiotics are ancient, dating back hundreds of millions of years. Resistance is therefore equally ancient, and the number of genes in the resistome is a reflection of the continuous co-evolution of small molecules in natural environments and microbial genomes.”  

-Gerard Wright, Nature Reviews Microbiology 2007 [3]

Given that they are ubiquitous in the environment, it is no surprise that there are antibiotic resistant genes in many foods [5]. Breast milk, too, contains antibiotic resistant genes carried on bacteria found in the raw breast milk [6].

Breastmilk and Antibiotic Resistant Genes

Researchers in Helsinki found that, even though breast milk contains antibiotic resistant genes, babies who were breast fed actually have less antibiotic resistant genes in their guts than babies who weren’t breastfed or who terminated breastfeeding early [7].  Researchers attribute this benefit to the fact that breastmilk promotes the growth of beneficial bacteria such as bifidobacteria, which can then outcompete the bacteria carrying antibiotic resistant genes. Like breast milk, cow’s milk has also been shown to support the growth of bifidobacterial [8]. 

Potential Dangers of Antibiotic Resistant Genes

Antibiotic resistant genes can pose potential health threats in specific circumstances. When antibiotics are taken, the intestinal microbiome is disrupted as both beneficial and harmful bacteria are killed off. This weakens our immune systems overall [9]. If there are antibiotic resistant bacteria present in the gut, taking antibiotics actually allows these bacteria to proliferate in the absence of competing bacteria. There can then be infection or illness which is not able to be respond to antibiotics. Antibiotic resistance is now responsible for the deaths of tens of thousands of people every year in the USA alone [10].

For example, C. diff. colitis (clostridium difficile colitis) is infection of the colon that results from disruption of the healthy bacteria in the gut, usually as a result of taking antibiotics. C. diff. can cause diarrhea, abdominal pain, fever, bloody stools, kidney failure, and even death. One of the best treatment options for severe C. diff. infections is fecal transplant. Severely ill C. diff. patients have a 92% cure rate from fecal transplants, which provide a healthy flush of poop from a healthy human donor into the colon [11]. The fecal transplant recolonizes the gut with healthy bacteria.

Zero Pathogens in Raw Milk Samples

Coming back to the study funded by the NIH and USDA [1], researchers found that antibiotic resistant genes proliferated in raw milk that was allowed to sit at room temperature for hours.  Their research showed that raw milk which was kept refrigerated had low levels of antibiotic resistant genes.  What this actually demonstrates is that raw milk from around the country is being produced very cleanly, resulting in low bacteria counts.

Most of the potential beneficial bacteria to be found in milk is from either fecal or soil origin. Yes…dirt is very good for you and a little poop does not hurt either [12]. It has long been understood that living in a farm environment has substantial health benefits over living in urban environments [13]. However, in our modern world with immune-compromised consumers, the raw milk standards have had to change.

For raw milk to be legal for sale and safe for the general public (including immune-compromised people), it must be very hygienic. It can no longer have dirt or poop in it. So, all that is left is clean, delicious, safe raw milk from deep inside the cow’s or goat’s udder. The government-funded study tested retail raw milk samples and they found ZERO pathogens! This should be celebrated as true progress towards farm cleanliness and testing.

“[Raw] milk samples in the present study were screened for Listeria spp., Salmonella enterica, and E. coli O157:H7. None were detected.”

-Liu et al. Microbiome 2020 [1]

Fermenting Raw Milk

For thousands of years, people have known how to ferment or “clabber” raw milk by simply leaving it at room temperature instead of refrigerating it.  In the absence of refrigeration, traditional cultures often consumed raw milk in fermented form [14]. Such milk would have contained ample beneficial lactic acid bacteria from the small amounts of dirt or manure that would have been present on the udders and teats of the milk animals, and would therefore quickly ferment at room temperature. 

In modern times, people have largely lost their taste for spontaneously fermented, sour raw milk. Raw milk farmers and consumers aim to maintain the sweet flavor of fresh milk as long as possible. The farmers do this by thoroughly cleaning the udders and milking equipment to ensure the milk will have low bacteria counts [15], as well as by rapidly chilling the milk and keeping it cold.  Consumers, too, work to make sure their raw milk is kept cold, even during transport.  Keeping raw milk cold allows it to retain its sweet taste and gives it a longer shelf life.

One useful point of information from the government-funded study was the finding that “spontaneous fermentation does not grow beneficial lactic acid bacteria”. This means that the very clean, low-bacteria count raw milk which is currently available in the USA may not ferment very well in the traditional way. The flavor of spontaneously fermented raw milk is not generally palatable to the modern raw milk consumer. Thus, most raw milk consumers actually work to make sure that their raw milk does not ferment and stays fresh and sweet.

Generally, raw milk consumers who intentionally ferment their milk will do so by adding beneficial bacteria such as yogurt starter or kefir grains. Kefir, in particular, is associated with a wide number of health benefits including lower blood pressure, decreased insulin resistance, tumor suppression and prevention, and improved composition of the gut microbiota [16-19].

The Bottom Line

The NIH and USDA-funded study found no pathogens in raw milk. This is further confirmation of the findings published in the January 2020 Journal of Epidemiology and Infection which concluded that “raw milk can be produced with a high level of hygiene and safety” [20].

The government-funded study focused on antibiotic resistant genes which can proliferate in raw milk that is left at room temperature for hours. However, it is no surprise that raw milk, like breastmilk and many other foods, contains antibiotic resistant genes. The presence of antibiotic resistant genes is not an issue unless the balance of good bacteria in the gut gets disrupted. Both breastmilk and raw milk are known to promote the growth of beneficial bacteria such as bifidobacteria. The study completely ignored the growing body of evidence that has shown that children who drink raw milk have decreased rates of asthma, allergies, eczema, ear infections, fever, and respiratory infections [21-23].

The best way to beat antibiotic resistant bacteria is to protect and nourish the biodiverse bacteria in the gut. You can do this by avoiding antibiotics and processed foods, which damage the gut and immune system [24, 25]. Instead, eat plenty of whole foods such as raw milk, milk kefir, grassfed beef, eggs, and fresh or fermented vegetables and fruits to feed the beneficial bacteria in the gut and allow it to thrive [26].

References

[1] Liu, J., Zhu, Y., Jay-Russell, M. et al. (2020) Reservoirs of antimicrobial resistance genes in retail raw milk. Microbiome 8, 99 (2020). https://doi.org/10.1186/s40168-020-00861-6

[2] Durso LM, Miller DN, Wienhold BJ (2012) Distribution and Quantification of Antibiotic Resistant Genes and Bacteria across Agricultural and Non-Agricultural Metagenomes. PLOS ONE 7(11): e48325. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0048325

[3] Wright, G. (2007) The antibiotic resistome: the nexus of chemical and genetic diversity. Nat Rev Microbiol 5, 175–186 (2007). https://doi.org/10.1038/nrmicro1614

[4] Ben Maamar S, Glawe AJ, Brown TK, Hellgeth N, Hu J, et al. (2020) Mobilizable antibiotic resistance genes are present in dust microbial communities. PLOS Pathogens 16(1): e1008211. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.ppat.1008211

[5] Fogler K, Guron GKP, Wind LL, Keenum IM, Hession WC, Krometis L-A, Strawn LK, Pruden A and Ponder MA (2019) Microbiota and Antibiotic Resistome of Lettuce Leaves and Radishes Grown in Soils Receiving Manure-Based Amendments Derived From Antibiotic-Treated Cows. Front. Sustain. Food Syst. 3:22. doi: 10.3389/fsufs.2019.00022

[6] Pärnänen, K., Karkman, A., Hultman, J. et al. (2018) Maternal gut and breast milk microbiota affect infant gut antibiotic resistome and mobile genetic elements. Nat Commun 9, 3891. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41467-018-06393-w

[ 7] Ravindran S. (2019) Breastfeeding May Help Protect Babies from Antibiotic-Resistant Bacteria. SPLASH! milk science update: January 2019 Issue. https://milkgenomics.org/article/breastfeeding-may-help-protect-babies-from-antibiotic-resistant-bacteria/

[8] Rova S, Rada V, Marsik P, Vlkova E, Bunesova V, Sklenar J, Splichal I. (2011) Growth of bifidobacteria and clostridia on human and cow milk saccharides. Anaerobe 17(5). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.anaerobe.2011.07.009.

[9] McAfee M, Smith S. (2020) Immunity, the Immune System, and Raw Milk. Raw Milk Institute website. https://www.rawmilkinstitute.org/updates/immunity-the-immune-system-and-raw-milk

[10] Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. (2019) More People in the United States Dying from Antibiotic-Resistant Infections than Previously Estimated. CDC website. https://www.cdc.gov/media/releases/2019/p1113-antibiotic-resistant.html

[11] Brandt L. J. (2012). Fecal transplantation for the treatment of Clostridium difficile infection. Gastroenterology & hepatology, 8(3). https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3365524/

[12] Akst, J. (2020) The influence of soil no immune health. The Scientist website. https://www.the-scientist.com/news-opinion/the-influence-of-soil-on-human-health-66885

[13] Wells, AD, Poole JA, and Romberger DJ. (2014) Influence of farming exposure on the development of asthma and asthma-like symptoms. International immunopharmacology, 23(1), 356–363. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.intimp.2014.07.014

[14] Levi, J. (2014) The Smoke Cured Fermented Milk of the Samburu. Presentation at Wise Traditions London 2014. https://westonaprice.london/videos/samburu/

[15] Smith, S. (2020) Udder Preparation for Raw Milk. Raw Milk Institute website. https://www.rawmilkinstitute.org/updates/udder-preparation-for-raw-milk

[16] Bourrie BC, Willing BP, and Cotter PD. (2016) The Microbiota and Health Promoting Characteristics of the Fermented Beverage Kefir. Frontiers in microbiology, 7, 647. https://doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2016.00647

[17] Bellikci-Koyu E, Sarer-Yurekli BP, Akyon Y, Aydin-Kose F, Karagozlu C, Ozgen AG, Brinkmann A, Nitsche A, Ergunay K, Yilmaz E, and Buyuktuncer Z. (2019) Effects of Regular Kefir Consumption on Gut Microbiota in Patients with Metabolic Syndrome: A Parallel-Group, Randomized, Controlled Study. Nutrients, 11(9), 2089. https://doi.org/10.3390/nu11092089

[18] Guzel-Seydim ZB, Kok-Tas T, Greene AK, Seydim AC. (2011) Review: functional properties of kefir. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 51(3):261-268. doi:10.1080/10408390903579029

[19] de Oliveira Leite AM, Miguel MA, Peixoto RS, Rosado AS, Silva JT, and Paschoalin VM. (2013) Microbiological, technological and therapeutic properties of kefir: a natural probiotic beverage. Brazilian journal of microbiology : [publication of the Brazilian Society for Microbiology], 44(2), 341–349. https://doi.org/10.1590/S1517-83822013000200001

[20] Berge AC, Baars T. (2020) Raw milk producers with high levels of hygiene and safety. Epidemiology and Infection. 148:e14. doi:10.1017/S0950268820000060

[21] Loss G, Apprich S, Waser M, Kneifel W, Genuneit J, Büchele G, Weber J, Sozanska B, Danielewicz H, Horak E, Joost van Neerven RJ, Heederik D, Lorenzen PC, von Mutius E, Braun-Fahrländer C; GABRIELA study group. (2011) The protective effect of farm milk consumption on childhood asthma and atopy: The GABRIELA study. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. 128 (4): 766-73. https://www.jacionline.org/article/S0091-6749(11)01234-6/fulltext

[22] Perkin MR and Strachan DP. (2006) Which aspects of the farming lifestyle explain the inverse association with childhood allergy? Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology. 2006; 117 (6):1374-81. https://www.jacionline.org/article/S0091-6749(06)00651-8/fulltext

[23] Loss G, Depner M, Ulfman LH, Joost van Neerven RJ, Hose AJ, Genuneit J, Karvonen M, Hyvärinen A, Kaulek V, Roduit C, Weber J, Lauener R, Pfefferle PI, Pekkanen J, Vaarala O, Dalphin JC, Riedler J, Braun-Fahrländer C, von Mutius E, Ege MJ; PASTURE study group. (2015) Consumption of unprocessed cow's milk protects infants from common respiratory infections. Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology.  135 (1): 56-62. https://www.jacionline.org/article/S0091-6749%2814%2901274-3/fulltext

[24] Watanabe K, Gilchrist CA, Uddin J, Burgess SL, Abhyankar MM, Moonah SN, Noor Z, Donowitz JR, Schneider BN, Arju T, Ahmed E, Kabir M, Alam M, Haque R, Pramoonjago P, Mehrad B, Petri WA. (2017) Microbiome-mediated neutrophil recruitment via CXCR2 and protection from amebic colitis. PLOS Pathogens; 13 (8): e1006513 DOI: 10.1371/journal.ppat.1006513

[25] Paula Neto HA, Ausina P, Gomez LS, Leandro JGB, Zancan P, Sola-Penna M. (2017) Effects of Food Additives on Immune Cells As Contributors to Body Weight Gain and Immune-Mediated Metabolic Dysregulation. Front Immunol.8:1478. doi:10.3389/fimmu.2017.01478

[26] McAfee M. (2020) Build Immune System Strength With Whole Foods: Drink Raw Milk! Raw Milk Institute website. https://www.rawmilkinstitute.org/updates/whole-foods-build-immune-system-strength

Michigan Raw Milk Farmer on a Mission to Heal

We’re giving a big “Welcome!” to Michigan’s Six S Dairy, the 21st farm to become LISTED by the Raw Milk Institute. Jenny and Brent Skelonc, along with their four children, have been farming at Six S Dairy since 2008. They produce raw milk as well as pasture-raised beef, pork, chicken and eggs.

Farming to Improve Their Family’s Health

Jenny and Brent embarked on farming after their youngest daughter was born with a rare genetic syndrome. In striving to give their daughter the best possible health, Jenny and Brent realized that living on a farm would be the healthiest environment for her. Indeed, multiple studies have shown that living on a traditional farm is healthier for kids, and is associated with lower rates of asthma and allergies. The Six S Dairy revolves around raising their animals well, with plenty of pasture, fresh air, and sunshine.

Living on a farm sets the stage for better health, and being nourished by well-produced farm fresh foods is even more critical. In making it a priority to keep their youngest daughter healthy, the whole family switched to a nutrient-rich real food diet centered around fresh foods from their own farm. In doing so, they experienced obvious health improvements including better immune systems.

Raw Milk Heals

Once the Skelonc family started producing and drinking raw milk in 2017, they saw that their twins’ 14-year battle with severe eczema ended almost instantly! Their experience confirms the studies which have shown that raw milk consumption is specifically associated with reduced rates of eczema.

Dedication to Low-Risk Raw Milk

Six S Dairy operates as a herdshare in Sand Lake, Michigan, providing raw milk to dozens of families every week. Six S Dairy takes the safety of their raw milk seriously.  Having been mentored by Edwin Shank from The Family Cow dairy in Pennsylvania, Six S Dairy has their own on-farm lab where they can test their raw milk to ensure it is being produced in a way that discourages pathogen growth. They test their milk every day to ensure it has low bacterial counts.

Six S Dairy has worked diligently to become LISTED by the Raw Milk Institute by developing their own Risk Analysis and Management Plan. They will be a great addition to the Raw Milk Institute’s community of dedicated farmers.

Udder Preparation for Raw Milk

Raw milk that is carefully and intentionally produced for direct human consumption is a low-risk food.  Udder preparation is one of the most important steps for producing clean, safe raw milk. If you don’t properly clean the udders and teats, dirt and manure contamination can contribute pathogenic bacteria into the milk. With proper cleaning and preparation of the udders and teats, the risk of pathogenic bacteria in the milk is dramatically reduced.

Manage the Environment

Got dirty, muddy udders? If so, that’s a sign that your farm conditions have some room for improvement. If you manage the farm environment properly, that will go a long way towards ensuring that your animals’ udders are fairly clean before even stepping into the milking parlor. The following are some important environmental factors to manage.

Clean and Dry Resting Places

If your animals are given a relatively clean and dry place to rest, they will be less likely to get filthy on a regular basis. Your individual farm will have its own unique challenges depending on the weather and landscape. Some examples of optimal resting areas are well-managed rotational pastures, compost bed packs in the barn, or other areas that are high, dry, and shaded.

Calves and Kids

Be aware that your animals’ offspring (calves, kids, etc.) can be a source of pathogens. Just like human babies, these animal babies explore the world with their mouths and can then directly transfer harmful bacteria to the udders. Animal babies have immature immune systems and are also more likely to harbor pathogens themselves. For low-risk raw milk production, ideally the calves/kids will be bottlefed and not allowed access to their mother’s udders. 

Chickens, Pigs, and Other Livestock

Poultry and livestock on the farm can be sources of pathogens as well.  For instance, if a cow lies down in a pasture with fresh chicken manure, her udders can become contaminated with salmonella or campylobacter pathogens. Ideally, the milk animals should be kept separately from other animals to reduce the pathogen risk.

Poultry should not be allowed into the milking parlor. Some raw milk farms choose to purposely rotate their chickens through the pastures after the cows/goats have moved through the pasture to ensure they are not sharing the space simultaneously.  If your chickens do share pastures with your milk animals, extra care will need to be taken to ensure the udders are properly cleaned before milking.    

Hair Management

Depending on the animal, there may be excess hair around the udders and teats. This hair can make it more difficult to properly clean the area before milking.  Regularly trimming the hair is one method for ensuring that proper cleaning can be achieved.

Additionally, the long tails on cows can become a source of contamination during milking when the cow switches her tail. Trimming the hair at the end of the tail is a good method for reducing this risk.  

Manure Management

Manure in the milking parlor can become a source of pathogen contamination, especially for cows which have much messier manure than goats and sheep. The milking parlor should be cleaned of manure on a daily basis before, during, and after milking. Giving cows a brief standing period or walk before leading them into the milking parlor is another method for reducing the amount of manure in the milking parlor.

Pre-Milking Udder Preparation

The end goal of udder preparation is for the udder to be clean and dry at the time of milking. A basic procedure to achieve this is as follows.

1.       Clean the udder and teats

2.       Pre-dip each teat in an iodine- or hydrogen peroxide-based teat dip

3.       Wipe off the teat dip

4.       Strip each teat and inspect the milk

5.       Apply the milking machine

6.       After milking, apply iodine-based post-dip to each teat

Each farm has its own unique challenges. There is no one procedure that will work perfectly for all farmers at all times. Here are some specific pointers that may help you in developing your own best udder preparation procedures.

Clean the Udder and Teats

If the udder and teats are very dirty, such as caked with mud or manure, you may need to do a wet soapy wash of the area first. There is no need to wet down the whole animal, as that will make it more likely for contamination to drip down onto the udders. Remember that wetness will allow bacteria to migrate from one area to another, and any bacteria is likely to end up at the low point which is the teats. If you must wash the udder and teats, make sure to dry them well before proceeding with the damp cloth wiping steps below. 

If the environment has been managed well, the udder and teats will probably be relatively clean when the animal enters the milking parlor. Use a clean, damp cloth to wipe off the teats and udder. Make sure to wipe from the teats outward, so that the teats are the cleanest parts. Using white cloths will allow you to easily see whether there is still any dirt or filth coming off the teats/udder.

Make sure to use a new cloth for each animal, and you may even need to use multiple cloths per animal to make sure the teats are well-cleaned. Have a separate bucket to place the soiled cloths into, so they don’t contaminate the clean cloths.

Pre-dip Teats in Iodine- or Hydrogen Peroxide-Based Teat Dip

After cleaning the udder and teats, pre-dip the teats. Both iodine and hydrogen peroxide-based teat dips are approved for organic milk production.

Iodine-based teat dips have been used successfully since the 1960’s and have a longer shelf life than hydrogen peroxide-based dips. Because iodine-based teat dips have a thicker consistency, care needs to be taken to ensure that the pre-dip is properly wiped off before milking. Iodine-based teat dips are currently quite expensive.

Hydrogen peroxide-based teat dips are much less expensive than iodine-based dips, but they also have somewhat less effectiveness in preventing mastitis. Hydrogen peroxide-based teat dips have a thinner consistency and thus can work well in spray applications. Care needs to be taken to ensure that the spray is applied to all sides of the teats.

Make sure to leave the pre-dip on for at least 30 seconds so that it has appropriate time to sanitize the teats. Beware not to dip dirty udders into your teat dip, else you may end up contaminating the whole cup! 

Once the teat dip has been on for at least 30 seconds, wipe off the teat dip with a clean, dry cloth.

Dip Then Strip, or Strip Then Dip?

It does not appear to matter whether you strip the teats and then pre-dip, or dip first and then strip the teats. Data from the National Mastitis Council has shown that there is “no significant difference in the monthly rate of clinical mastitis, new subclinical cases or milk per cow per day" whether the teats are stripped-then-dipped or dipped-then-stripped. Either way, the important thing is to build consistency and stick with your procedures. 

Strip Each Teat and Inspect the Milk

Using clean or gloved hands, manually strip a few squirts of milk out of each teat. Inspect the milk for any signs of coagulation, stringiness, blood, etc. If there is anything abnormal, the milk is best discarded or used for some other purpose rather than direct human consumption.

Apply the Milking Machine

Once the teats have been cleaned, dipped, stripped, and dried, you are ready to apply the milking machine. Manage the milk claws such that they never touch the ground, and are quickly applied to the teats once the vacuum is turned on.

After Milking, Apply Iodine-Based Post-Dip

Once the milking is done, apply an iodine-based post-dip to the teats. This will help to seal the teat orifice against bacteria. Try to ensure that the animals remain standing for at least 30 minutes after applying the post-dip; this will allow the dip to fully dry before there is any potential contamination from lying down.

Example Udder Prep Video

Here is a video example of udder preparation, so you can see some of the principles of proper udder preparation in action. Remember that each farm is unique, and there is no solitary procedure that will work perfectly for all farmers at all times.

Why Humans Drink (RAW) Milk

Why Did Ancient Humans Start Consuming Milk From Other Mammals?

10,000 years ago, early humans spent much of their time hunting, gathering, or fishing for food. Obtaining food was the dominant preoccupation of their lives. Imagine the reality for humans living prior to the advent of civilization. You can picture them living in crude shelters, wearing animal skins and using few tools. It was not like a 14-day survival challenge where they could call for a medic and be rescued. Eating and surviving were lifelong challenges.

You can hear the crying of babies and children that were hungry. Those cries are universal and have not changed over the millennia. The natural instinct to provide for the next generation was a compelling mandate which drove instinctual and natural innovation.

Early humans nursed their young, just as all mammals do. Nursing provided optimal nutrition for babies to survive and thrive. Breastmilk is a form of raw milk, serving as a complete food source that is perfectly designed to sustain life.

People observed animals in the wild nursing their young just as they nursed their own young. By capturing goats and aurochs (ancestral cow breeds), the people were able to collect their milk in pottery vessels. These humans would have learned quickly that milk from other animals was a complete, nutritious food. Being purposely designed to sustain life like no other food, this raw milk provided a steady source of readily available food for ancient humans.

Without refrigeration, any milk that wasn’t consumed quickly would naturally ferment into cheese curd and whey. The milk storage vessels likely contained bacteria cultures from previous milkings, and hence the culturing process was naturally reinforced with these bacteria.  The resultant curds could be stored and consumed over time. Curd contained a complete set of microbiome-friendly nutrients, and would be easy to digest due to its biodiversity. The humans could now bring along with them a portable supply of steady food. As long as they had sunshine, water, grass or shrubbery, and a mammal, they had food.  

Scientists have ample evidence that humans began drinking raw milk from animals at least 10,000 years ago. The evidence for the early use of animal milk is found in ancient clay pottery vessels, dental remains of Neolithic humans, and bone analysis of animal remains. Ancient baby bottles provide evidence that milk from animals was used to feed human infants at least 8,000 years ago.

The origin and dispersal of domestic livestock species in the Fertile Crescent. (Zeder, Melinda)

These agriculture-based civilizations were so successful that they spread across the Mediterranean region, Europe, Asia, and the Middle East over the next few thousand years. Humanity continued to domesticate additional species of animals; throughout history, many species have been utilized for their milk including camels, cows, goats, sheep, donkeys, horses, water buffalo, reindeer, and other mammals.

Those who consumed milk had a competitive advantage over those that did not have a steady source of readily available food.  This steady supply of food allowed for settlements and communities to develop. People no longer had to spend most of their time acquiring food, and could instead use their brain power to drive the development of sophisticated structures and towns. Domesticated animals became high value assets. As civilization advanced, those that owned milking mammals became wealthy and became the source of food for communities.

Selection of late Bronze/early Iron Age feeding vessels.(J Dunne, et al.)

Lactase and Genetic Adaptations for Milk

The domestication of mammals and consumption of their raw milk provided a source of biodiverse colonies of bacteria for the human gut. When people began drinking raw milk at least 10,000 years ago, these biodiverse bacteria began the genomic adaptation for lactase production and lactase persistence genes. Lactase is the enzyme responsible for breaking down lactose into digestible form. 

Humans who first began to consume milk from other mammals had not yet developed the lactase persistence gene. Nonetheless, they likely would have been able to readily digest raw milk because it facilitates the production of lactase enzyme in the intestinal tract. Archaeological evidence shows that humans were consuming raw milk for thousands of years before the widespread appearance of the lactase-persistence gene. This has led many researchers to the probably erroneous conclusion that Neolithic humans must have been fermenting or culturing milk to reduce or remove its lactose content.  

In reality, “lactose-intolerance” is primarily pasteurization intolerance.  Since raw milk facilitates the production of lactase, it is not likely that there were widespread issues with lactose intolerance in Neolithic populations. In all likelihood, these early populations would have been able to consume milk in its fresh form straight from the mammals, as well as in the lacto-fermented curds and whey which would form quickly without refrigeration.  

Stone carving at the ancient Sumerian temple of Ninhursag showing typical dairy activities. (Dorling Kindersley, The Visual Dictionary of Ancient Civilizations)

The competitive advantage provided by raw milk is not to be understated. Raw milk allowed humans to thrive in conditions where survival would have been difficult. It allowed them to migrate and proliferate from region to region with a steady supply of food. Those populations that consumed milk further adapted by developing lactase-persistence genes. Scientists now believe that the lactase-persistence genes were spread through natural selection. This means that the reproductive capacity and/or survivability of ancient raw milk drinkers was substantially increased compared to non-milk-drinking populations. The lactase-persistence genes would have facilitated the easy digestion of milk in many forms, including boiled or cooked milk. There is current evidence of lactase persistence genes in people from regions of Africa, Europe, Asia, and the Middle East. However, even those without the lactase-persistent gene can generally digest raw milk because of the raw milk bacteria that create lactase for the human gut. 

Pasteurization: A Technological Solution to a Manmade Problem

A 19th century illustration of "swill milk" being produced: a sickly cow being milked while held up by ropes. (Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Weekly)

By the mid-1800’s in America, some raw milk production had shifted away from farms and into highly-populated cities. Big cities did not have pastures or clean water, and the cows in city dairies were kept in filthy conditions with poor nutrition and poor animal health. Many of these cows were fed byproducts from alcohol distilleries, leading to illness in the cows. Raw milk, which had been safely consumed by humans for nearly 10,000 years, had become a source of deadly diseases such as tuberculosis, typhoid, diphtheria, and scarlet fever. 

In the late 1800's, it was recognized that raw milk being produced in these conditions was dangerous, and two solutions were proposed.  Pasteurization was one of the solutions which was proposed to eliminate pathogenic bacteria in the milk coming from these filthy conditions. The other solution was to actually produce the milk in hygienic conditions with healthy animals.  

It was known that raw milk was a superior source of nutrition for infants and children, so the American Association of Medical Milk Commissions (AAMMC) was established in the late 1800's to ensure a safe supply of hygienic raw milk. The AAMMC was in operation for nearly a century, certifying medical raw milk for use in hospitals and for feeding infants and children.  

Pasteurization was ushered in to address filthy conditions and unhealthy cows in cities.  It answered the question of how to commercialize dirty milk, rather than spending the time and energy it would take to produce clean milk from healthy cows. Clearly, over time, the pasteurization movement gained traction and became the standard for ensuring "safe" milk, yet pasteurization is known to degrade and damage many of the nutrients in milk. 

Raw Milk’s Role in 2020

Now, in 2020, we are in a time of widespread immune depression, comorbidities, and compromised health. For most Americans, the competitive advantage of raw milk consumption has never been a reality. Raw milk’s immune-building properties and microbiome friendly traits have been forgotten. 

Instead, we live in the age of immune-destructive pharmaceuticals and antibiotics. Although life-saving  in certain applications, these drugs also depress and damage the immune system and gut microbiome. Antibiotic resistance is now responsible for the deaths of tens of thousands of people every year in the USA alone. Furthermore, pasteurized milk is now recognized as a top food allergen and difficult to digest.  

Raw milk is an innate part of our healthy immune history, and is largely missing in our sterile, sugar-laden, preservative-laced, antibiotic-abusing modern diets and medical culture.  Safe raw milk has been rediscovered by those who study history and know the role of raw milk as a nourishing whole food.  Raw milk that is carefully and intentionally produced for direct human consumption is wholly different from milk being produced for pasteurization.  

So, the next time that someone says, “milk is for cows and not for humans,” share with them the intricate link between civilization and raw milk, and the competitive advantage that raw milk provided to humanity for 10,000 years. Many of these misinformed humans are in dire need of gut microbiome rescue like never before. Reach out to them with love, compassion and humanity. They need our support, nourishment, and education.    

Advice for Farmers Considering the Switch to Raw Milk

In today’s unpredictable world, many dairy farmers are interested in selling raw milk. Due to the domino-effect of changes in the supply chain due to COVID19, many dairy farms are having to dump their milk. The dairy processing industry which was previously supplying milk to schools and restaurants cannot rapidly adapt to bottling and delivering milk for retail sales. Selling raw milk may seem like a good alternative to many of these dairy farms, but in actuality this would be a complex change requiring a large amount of forethought and precaution.

Demand for raw milk is increasing in recent years as consumers learn about raw milk’s significant health benefits. Raw milk consumption has been correlated to decreased rates of asthma, allergies, eczema, ear infections, fever, and respiratory infections. Raw milk consumption has also been correlated with improved lung health, and many consumers who are lactose intolerant can actually consume raw milk with no problems.  Plus, raw milk tastes great! Raw milk’s deliciousness is one of the main drivers for why consumers choose raw milk over pasteurized milk. 

It’s Not a Trivial Change

Switching from producing milk intended for pasteurization to raw milk intended for direct human consumption requires a huge shift in mindset and practices. Studies have shown that up to 24% of pre-pasteurized milk contains pathogens, whereas raw milk from well-trained farmers is very unlikely to contain pathogens.

Chart from “Two Types of Raw Milk” by the British Columbia Fresh Milk Project

Farmers who produce low-risk raw milk carefully manage the cleanliness and hygiene of the farm as a whole from grass-to-glass. From the health of the herd, to cleanliness of the milking parlor, to the specific cleaning processes for the milk line, to ensuring rapid milk chilling, to regularly testing their milk, and everything in between, raw milk farmers have to be dedicated to taking their farm management to the next level in order to ensure that their raw milk is safe to consume.

For dairy farmers who are considering the switch to raw milk production, here are some specific guidelines for producing safe raw milk.

Cleanliness

Cleanliness is of paramount importance in producing raw milk. Your whole milking system, from udders to bottling, must be cleaned exceptionally well, or else there is a much higher likelihood that the milk will end up tainted with pathogens.

Udder preparation and cleaning is of particular importance, since dirty udders are the most probable source for pathogens in milk. Udders need to be clean and dry at milking.  For raw milk production, udder prep typically includes:

• brushing and/or cleaning the udders to make sure they are hygienic

• using a clean rag and towel for each cow/doe

• applying iodine-based teat dip, which is left on for at least 30 seconds

• wiping off the teat dip with a clean, dry towel

• stripping each teat with clean hands or gloves, and inspecting the milk to look for any signs of clotting, blood, etc.

(More details on udder prep are given here.)

Special care needs to be taken to ensure that the milking system, chiller, and tank are cleaned frequently and thoroughly.  Typically, the milking system needs to be cleaned after each milking with cool/tepid water first, followed by very hot alkaline cleaner, and then finished with hot acidic cleaner. Milk tanks need to be cleaned frequently, including complete disassembly and cleaning of the tank valve.

Milk bottling should ideally occur in a clean, uncluttered room with smooth washable walls and floor. Care should be taken to ensure that the milk bottling room is kept clean and is not contaminated with manure or other filth.

Herd Health

Herd health is very important in raw milk production, as unhealthy animals are more likely to develop infection and mastitis which increases the likelihood of having pathogens in the milk. Your raw milk herd must be verified to be free of tuberculosis, brucellosis, and Johne’s disease. Biosecurity must be carefully managed to ensure that the herd does not come into contact with other animals (wild or domesticated) that may be carrying disease.

Rapid Chilling and Maintaining the Cold Chain

Under ideal growth conditions, bacteria counts double every 20 minutes.  Increased bacterial counts are associated with faster milk souring as well as greater presence of pathogens.  Decreased temperatures slow bacterial growth dramatically, and thus it is quite important to make sure that raw milk is rapidly chilled to slow bacterial growth. Ideally, raw milk should be chilled to 38F within an hour of milking. Keep raw milk cold throughout the bottling process and all the way through customer receipt of the milk.

Preventing Cross Contamination

Be aware that other farm animals such as chickens, rodents, birds, and pigs can pose a pathogen threat. For instance, chickens may carry salmonella and campylobacter, and cows/does that lie down in chicken manure may end up with pathogen contamination on their udders. Your milking herd should be kept separate from pigs and chickens. Chickens and birds should be kept out of the milking barn.

Milk stacking occurs when milk from subsequent milkings is placed in the same tank. Milk stacking is to be avoided as much as possible because it increases the likelihood of having bacterial problems. One bad batch can contaminate the rest. Additionally, milk stacking raises the temperature of the previously-cooled milk, making it more likely to support bacterial growth.

If your farm will produce both pasteurized and raw milk, you’ll need to take special care to ensure that the pasteurized milk is kept completely separated from raw milk. Pasteurized milk provides an ideal growth environment for pathogenic Listeria mono be can because there is no beneficial bacteria present to outcompete the Listeria.

Regular Testing

Don’t make the mistake of assuming that, just because your family can drink your raw milk with no problems, there are no pathogens present. Farm families have robust immune systems due to repeated exposure to the farm environment, so they are less likely to become ill from raw milk.  However, if you are selling raw milk to the public, you may end up with customers who have weak or impaired immune systems.  These customers will have a much lower threshold for illness from pathogens than farm families.

Testing is an important part of safe raw milk production. Testing provides a verification step that the practices and procedures are working well to produce low-risk raw milk. According to the Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) Common Standards, raw milk should be tested regularly for coliforms and standard plate count. These tests provide a good indication of the hygiene, cleanliness, and handling of the milk. The Common Standards call for <10 coliforms/mL and <5,000 for SPC.

Take Care of Your Market

Selling to people versus selling to a processor: It’s an entirely different and very rewarding world. If you get it right, you’ll become a trusted brand and be beloved. 

As farmers who want to switch into the raw dairy market, besides following high standards for cleanliness and farm management, one of the biggest changes for you will be selling directly to people, kids, and families. You will no longer sell to a processor. The families you provide raw milk to trust you, and you’d better do an outstanding job! 

Building a market for raw milk does not just happen. Selling to a processor doesn’t require answering questions from end consumers or developing close consumer relationships. You’ll have to work hard to develop each relationship with your consumers, and be prepared to answer lots of questions. You must be interested in answering these questions and carefully researching to assure that the most current and accurate information is provided. All of this needs to be done with a warm smile :) and some compassion. 

As we say at RAWMI, “You don’t sell raw milk. You teach it”. If you teach enough, you can sell enough. It’s all about making that consumer connection with very high quality and safety. 

That means you become both a teacher and a producer.  If consumers don’t know what is so great about raw milk... they won’t buy it.  Why would they? They must learn first, then the sale is a done deal. Knowledge is gained and trust is earned before a sale is completed. 

Welcome to world of raw milk and directly nourishing people. 

We’re Here to Help

If you want more information on switching to raw milk production, please don't hesitate to ask. The Raw Milk Institute (RAWMI) trains and mentors farmers in the production of low-risk raw milk. RAWMI is a non-profit organization, so our training and mentoring is FREE for farmers. We also have brochures that can help with educating consumers about the benefits of raw milk. We'd be happy to help you in making sure you get off to a good start with raw milk. You can email us at contact@rawmilkinstitute.org.

Factory Farms vs. Sustainable Local Farms During COVID19

Milk is Being Dumped While Stores are Selling Out

Mother Nature has her ways of giving us advice. Sometimes that advice is subtle and sometimes it is brutal.  This time she was pretty direct, and she did not mix her signals.  Consolidated, centralized food systems have not been able to adapt to the rapid changes brought on by the COVID19 pandemic.

The Standard American Diet and its production, processing, logistics and delivery systems have failed.  American farmers that serve this highly consolidated food system are dumping 3 million gallons of milk per day; meanwhile American supermarkets are stripped clean of dairy products. The dairy processing industry which was previously supplying milk to schools and restaurants cannot rapidly adapt to bottling and delivering milk for retail sales.

For many years, the demand for fluid pasteurized milk has been dropping at a rate of ~1% per year. During this long decline, bottling plants have been closed and cheese plants have been opened. When America was asked to stay at home in response to COVID19, much of the food service industry was stopped, restaurants were idled, and schools were closed.

At home, kids wanted cereal and needed three meals every day. They wanted milk! The demand for milk raged upwards. Yet the supermarkets could not meet that demand. Panic-buying made matters even worse, with store shelves remaining sporadically empty for weeks, and even now milk is being rationed in many places.

Meanwhile, dairymen are dumping truckloads of milk. The market price of milk is dropping like a rock from $18 per hundredweight (CWT) to $14 CWT or even lower. The break-even price for dairymen is around $18-$20 CWT. Thus, dairies are continuing to fail at an unprecedented rate while stores are not able to meet the demand for milk.  It is an unmitigated disaster.

“Get Big or Get Out”

This is the 50 year old story of “Get Big or Get Out”. This philosophy of feeding the world and starving the American farmer was started in the early 1970’s by Earl Butz, who was Secretary of Agriculture under Nixon. Butz’s idea was that the most efficient farmers would overtake the smaller farmers, prices would drop, and supply would increase.

This structure concentrates power into the hands of a few aiming at cheap food for all, with an abundance which America would then export into the world markets. We would feed the world.  This design has become part of the America farm culture and has led to a massive decline in the number of dairies.  

Massive Decline in Number of Small Dairies

In 1940, America had over 4 million dairy farms. By the late 1990’s, that number had dropped to just over 100,000 dairies in the USA. Currently, there are only about 30,000 dairies left, and we are losing an additional 5% of dairies every year.   

According to USDA data, there has been a sharp decline in the number of dairies with 30-200 cows; meanwhile, the number of large dairy farms is increasing. From 1992-2012, “the number of dairy farms with at least 1,000 cows more than tripled.” One future-thinking dairy leader has projected that America will have only 100 dairies in 20 years. America would still have its 9+ million cows, but those cows would be contained in massive concentrated animal feeding operations (CAFOs) with 90,000 cows each.

Consumer polls clearly indicate that consumers don’t want their milk coming from 90,000 cow massive CAFO operations. The environmental impact from large CAFO operations is devastating. The manure lagoons are the size of lakes and the smell is horrendous. There are no pastures. The feedlots go on and on forever!  This system has many flaws, and more of those flaws showed themselves to the world in the last 6 weeks during the COVID19 pandemic.

Consolidated Food Systems Lack Resilience and Adaptability

COVID19 has demonstrated that a consolidated food system fails the American public in times of crisis. Consolidated massive operations and their logistics can not adapt and they are not resilient. These operations cannot adjust to changing market conditions and they fail when the consumer demands change. The consolidated milk industry failed to meet the needs of Americans because it was not able to respond and adapt in the face of rapid change. Similar issues have arisen in consolidated vegetable industries and meat industries during this crisis.

The food chain stress test has been performed. The results are in and America’s big food systems have failed miserably.  This has become a serious threat to American national food security!

Food security is seriously jeopardized with milk going to just a handful of milk processors. That’s the future of “Get Big or Get Out” and it is smelly, ugly, and does not work to serve America. Additionally, with so much of this system relying on imports and exports, when countries close their borders, this system cannot function.

Consumer Connected Farmers Are Thriving

The local farmer-to-consumer system has also been tested during this time of crisis, and the results have been quite different. Farmers who sell directly to consumers are thriving. The comparison of this market to the CAFO-driven market is dramatic.  

Farmer–to-consumer sales are highly adaptive and resilient, because the farmers are connected to their consumers. They know and hear one another!  Farmers can adjust quickly to changes in consumer demand. During the COVID19 pandemic, many dairy farmers who sell directly to consumers saw a huge increase in the demand for milk. They were able to meet this demand by diverting milk which would have been used to make butter and cheese into bottled milk instead. Both the farmers and consumers benefited from this ability of the farmers to adapt to the changing demand.

Farmers who sell directly to consumers produce fresh foods which are unprocessed or less-processed. These fresh foods support and build immune systems through nourishing healthy gut biomes. Up to 80% of the immune system makes its home in our gut and is powered by a biodiversity of bacteria and the whole foods that feed them. These foods come from sundrenched rich soils and local ethical farmers that connect directly to consumers. This food system is thriving and growing.

In contrast, highly processed foods with long shelf life, which are filled with preservatives and antibiotics, are destructive to the gut biome. Consumers have begun to understand this.

Within the dairy community, farms such as cow share programs, micro dairies that produce raw milk, and dairies with their own processing plants have been able to quickly adapt and respond to the changing demand from consumers and stores. These food systems are responsive, adaptive, nutritionally rich, and economically alive.

You Vote With Your Food Dollars

America must make a decision about its fate. Food systems are very much a part of our America. Will America thrive, be resilient and adapt to threats? Will America continue to become even more economically, environmentally, and immunologically compromised and depressed? Or will America embrace smaller local farms who produce nourishing whole foods? Will America embrace disease-prevention and whole food nutrition? Will it build or suppress its innate and adaptive immune systems?

Each dollar spent on food directs America’s future. Where we direct our food dollars is a very personal question. Will we have healthy children or not?  Will we take personal responsibility for our own health with whole food nutrition or will we continue to vote for “Get Big or Get Out”?   

The food system stress test results are in. Let’s move beyond “Get Big or Get Out.”  Let’s invest in illness prevention with farm-direct local, unprocessed, whole foods that build our immunity. It’s a personal gut microbiome choice. Let’s adapt and become resilient. The alternative is a dead end.